Arts
and traditions itinerary

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The Salt Road
Along the road that runs from Trapani to Paceco and Marsala, skirting
the lagoon of lo Stagnone where Motya lies, it is possible to see
numerous dazzlingly white mountains shimmering in the sun. These are
not snow-capped mountains but hills of salt, one of the Sicilian economy's
historical resources that was already very precious in the days of
the Phoenicians, who were the first to bring some form of technology
to its production. The favourable climatic circumstances, such as
high temperatures and a wind that increases evaporation, plus the
shallowness of the water, contribute to create the evocative and unreal
scenario created by the salt flats, which form a sort of immense chessboard
that ranges in colour from off-green to pink. The tourist paths for
visits to the salt flats wind their way around the great basins and,
running along the edges of the tanks of seawater - which glistens
in the sun as it crystallizes - finally reach the mounds of salt.
These mounds are topped by a series of recently restored windmills
that recall the days when they were among the main instruments for
pumping the water and grinding the salt. A panorama that has to be
enjoyed, preferably at sunset, when everything becomes tinged with
red.
Nubia Salt Museum (Trapani)
The first stop to make on the salt
road as one proceeds along coast road SP 21 in the direction of
Marsala is at Nubia, the World Wildlife Fund base that manages the
Riserva Naturale delle Saline di Trapani e Paceco (Trapani and Paceco
Salt Flats Nature Reserve), where a "Salt Museum" has
been set up in a 300-year-old salt-working house.
Here are illustrated the various phases of the working of the salt,
and some of the equipment used for extracting and gathering the salt
is also displayed: the gears of the mills, shovels, cogwheels, taps,
pinions. The information panels on the walls and the photographs of
the salters at work combine to immerge visitors in the world of the
salt flats and tell them of a craft with fixed times and rituals that
were handed down from father to son. A little known activity, at the
base of which there was a passion and a particular relationship with
the waters of the sea that was akin to that felt by fishermen.
Ettore and Infersa Salt Museum (Marsala)
The most spectacular salt flats are to
be seen along highroad SP 21 in the direction of lo Stagnone - the
"Ettore e Infersa" salt flats are well signposted. Thanks
to the passionate interest of two men, Ettore and Infersa, who restored
and returned to working order a mill over 500 years old, once an
indispensable instrument for the grinding of the salt, it is still
possible to savour the fascination of this ancient craft. The star-shaped
Dutch-type windmill consists of its truncated-cone base, a cupola,
and six trapezoidal sails with a wooden framework, to which is applied
the fabric of the sails that rotate in the wind. Inside the windmill,
a complicated system of cogwheels and gears makes it possible to
turn the cupola and the sails, exploiting the energy of the wind
in order to grind the salt and channel the water. This particular
windmill is connected to what is known as an Archimedean screw.
The scales can rotate at a speed of 20 km per hour and generate
120 horsepower; to drive the grindstone on the ground floor it is
necessary to reach at least 30 to 40 horsepower.
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